Hola todos,
One of the things that I had been dying to do in Chile since I started planning my winter/summer break was visit all three of Pablo Neruda's houses in Chile. Pablo Neruda was a Chilean poet, diplomat, writer, intellectual, and politician (and I probably left something out too). He was a very influential and loved public figure, and his eccentric style and appreciations for beauty, nature, and the ocean are present in each of his Chilean residences.
La Chascona is in Santiago, Isla Negra is in El Quisco, and La Sebastiana is in Valparaíso. While visiting Chile, I was able to visit all three within four days! Here are some photos of the three houses which, although they are now museums, were left relatively untouched after his death. (Although I was allowed to tour the insides- with extremely informative audio tours- pictures were only allowed to be taken of the houses' exteriors. Which is definitely a major bummer, because the coolest parts of the houses were the inside, in my opinion!)
One of Isla Negra's many beautiful ocean views. That metal fish is a sculpture version of the symbol of the Pablo Neruda foundation. The symbol is found at all three houses!
Just another stunning view of the ocean from a patio. Casual.
This was first written by Pablo Neruda in chalk, and then carved into the wood by a friend of his who was a carpenter. It reads: "Regresé de mis viajes. Navegué construyendo la alegría." which means "I returned from my travels. I navigated by building happiness". Neruda fancied himself a dry-land sailor, and his fascination with boats and the sea is present in all three residences.
Neruda also loved trains. He had sculptures and actual train parts placed in various locations at his houses.
Again, with the whole "wanna-be sailor" thing. Neruda would actually ring a port bell at his house to let his neighbors and fellow sailors know that he was home.
As you can see, the landscaping is gorgeous. This house was also very long and thin- the house stretches past the width of this photo! The long and thin structure, as well as clever window placement and ceiling height, gave one the feeling of being inside a train.
La Sebstiana was named after the original owner of the land that this house currently sits upon- Sebastian something-or-other. Because this man was the captain of a ship, Neruda focused this house on his nautical passions in honor of the sailor.
See the fish symbol again? (It is in the black circle in the upper corner of the gray wall.) This a view of the walk towards the house from the street.
Can you see the boat? Well, it is a house that is shaped like a boat. Again with the nautical theme.
Neruda definitely had the best view of Valpo from his balcony. Stunning.
The view from a window in the study. What.
The name La Chascona refers to the tangled, messy hair of Matilde Urrutia, the woman who Neruda had a not-so-secret affair with. He built this house as a place for her to live and for their secret rendezvous.
The entrance to La Chascona. The blue bold outside tricks you into thinking that this will be another bold architectural piece like his other two homes. Nopes.
Although the exterior was not as ostentatious as Isla Negra and La Sebastiana, the flora was incredible.
The outside of La Chascona was the most boring of all three houses (although it was still pretty- just not peculiar!), but the inside was still super cool and eclectic. I'm bummed that I couldn't take photos to show you all!
My favorite house was probably Isla Negra because of it's proximity to the ocean, although La Sebastiana definitely had the best views. (I'm not a huge fan of La Chascona mostly because it was Neruda's hide away for when he was cheating on his wife. However, the greenery and interior decorations are very nice.)
There were two main observations that stuck out at me during my tours of these houses. Firstly, Neruda was totally obsessed with trains and boats. Seriously. He was like a five year old boy. And secondly, you cannot fathom Neruda's randomness, eccentricity, and creativity until you see the interior designs and decorations for yourself. He was a strange man with some weird tendencies, which are highlighted by the way that he decorated his houses. However, there is a strange artistic reality that can be appreciated by all.That being said, it is obvious that you must visit at least one of the houses. If you are ever in Chile, you must visit Santiago. While you are there, check out La Chascona! If you want more, you can take a 2 hour bus ride to El Quisco to see Isla Negra. And if you have traveled all the way to Santiago, you are almost obligated to take a side trip to Valparaíso to see the town (and since you will be near La Sebastiana, you might as well see it, too!)
Besos,
Tina the Exploradora
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