Iron Curtain & Ironman: Prague (Day 3)

Hola todos,

I've made it to a new country! While I was definitely sad to leave Amsterdam, Prague has already more than made up for it. 

My plane landed around 10:30 pm, and then I caught a bus to the metro and took the metro into town a few stops to my hostel. It sounds like a lot, but it was only maybe 30 minutes start to finish. (And it was super easy to buy the bus ticket and find the bus stop at the airport!)

My hostel is super centrally located, and right when I got off the metro, I could tell I was in the center of the nightlife. The streets were filled with people on patios and at bars and walking the streets (which makes sense for 11 pm on a Saturday night!) as I made my way to my hostel.

I'm always a little unsure what exactly I am going to find when I check in at a hostel--did my reservation not go through? Or did I book my stay for a month from now on accident? This time, though, I only got a good surprise. I had registered (and paid!) for a 12-bed mixed dorm, meaning there would probably be 4 sets of 3-person bunks in a small room and my roommates would be (likely) a mix of men and women. (Side note: 3-person bunk beds are a little scary, especially if you're in the top bunk. Ask me my story about a Brazilian 3-bed bunk and a ceiling fan sometime.)

Anyways, when I got to my room, it was a 4-person women's dorm! And none of the beds were bunks! And the room has a private kitchen with a fridge and a stovetop! This is probably the nicest hostel room I've stayed in, which just means the rest of the hostels this trip can only go downhill... But I am certainly not complaining. :)

I got bed pretty late and woke up exhausted. (I'm worried my body clock has resisted my attempts to hard-reset it to Central Europe time...). But I had an alarm because I have so. much. Prague.

I briefly met one of my hostel roommates, Megan, who has been in Prague for two days and is leaving today for Budapest. She's from Australia and spending a few weeks in Europe. (This is why hosteling can be fun! Especially when traveling solo. You can meet some cool people.) Before I left for the day, Megan warned me: "It's intense, man."

Well, now it was my time to find out!

 

You know how I loved walking early morning Amsterdam while the city was rising? Well, the same is totally true for Prague. It was 7:30 am, and there were so few people out, but the sun was up, the air was crisp, and I got the best views of everything!

 

I started walking across the city and across the bridge to the Prague Castle, which is actually a complex of several different buildings. It's also the largest medieval castle in the world!

The view of the castle complex from the bridge.

To start, I checked out the exterior of the complex, which is free and opens several hours before the ticketed buildings open and tour lines form.

St. Vitus Cathedral (I have my phone camera zoomed out so that you can see the whole thing, so the picture is a bit distorted. See the tiny people down below? It's overwhelming in size.)

This is a view from the side of a building next to the Cathedral, which conveys the scale of it a bit better. As I would learn later, it took almost 6 centuries (centuries!) to build the Basilica.

It was a pretty hilly ascent to the top of the Castle, but the views made it totally worth it.

 

Then I walked back across the bridge into town to go to my free walking tour, which focused on the Old Town and Jewish Quarter of Prague. (I did stop for a quick espresso and breakfast on the way, too.) My tour group was fairly large, and I befriended a couple of recent college grads from Virginia (they literally knew where the Trader Joe's nearest to my house is...) and a family from California.

The tour started at the Powder Tower, which used to be a small part of a larger defensive wall. Now, it is all that remains. It used to store gunpowder, thus the name. Next to it is the Municipal House, which is where the Czechoslovakian declaration of independence was signed.

 

Left: The Powder Tower (or Powder Gate) is on the left, the Municipal House on the right.

Right: the Municipal House.

Franz Kafka was Czech and was born in Prague, and the city is very proud of that. We stopped at a statue representing one of his stories, and later we stopped by the house he was born in.

Left picture: Kafka statute. Right picture: apartments he was born in.

As I mentioned, a big part of this tour focused on the Jewish history of Prague. While the Jewish people in Prague certainly suffered persecution during World War II, they had a tumultuous history with the various kingdoms that ruled this region (Bohemia) for nearly a millennia before that.

These were two of the synagogues we passed in the Jewish Quarter (also called "Josefov" after King Josef II). The one on the left was part of the mid-19th century Jewish Quarter renovations completed by Josef II, one of the Hapsburg kings (I think?). That area of town went from being a slum in disrepair to prime real estate because of the money and work put into it. On the right is the oldest active synagogue in Europe. It was built in 1270. Nope, not a typo.

Throughout the Jewish Quarter, you can see little gold plaques like these in the ground. They commemorate Jewish individuals or families who were killed by the Nazis. This plaque was outside of an apartment residence, indicating that building was their last known official address. All four of these individuals were murdered in concentration camps.

Next stop on the tour was the Astronomical Clock, a famous and famously complicated four-part clock on the side of a former church (or maybe town hall? Honestly, it is so easy to lose track.).

 

There are four different "clocks" telling different times. I can't remember it all. But it is a fascinating bit of engineering! Every hour, some of the figurines move around (meant to symbolize the passing of time and memento mori).

Not all walking tours have a built-in break, but this one did. We stopped at a row of cafes for coffee and bites. I got to try raspberry kolache. Yum!

Our last stop was the state theater building. Much of the architecture in that area is gothic and neo-gothic, so it stands out as... well, not that. I can't remember what kind of architecture this is. Anyways... this building is where Mozart premiered Don Giovanni in the 1700s (!) and the Czech national anthem was premiered in 1993 upon the split of Czechoslovakia into the Czech Republic and Slovakia. Quite the history! The building still holds concerts today.

The tour concluded, but my day was far from over! It was time for me to trek back to the Prague Castle for a timed tour ticket (or, at least, that was what I thought.). The tricky part was getting back across the river (via a different bridge) and getting up to the complex.

The view from the Charles Bridge, my second bridge of the day.

I could see where I needed to go (again, it's at the top of a big hill!) but I wasn't exactly sure how to get there or which streets would dead end. There were signs with arrows, but I don't read Czech, so I was just guessing that the one with a picture that kind of looked like a big castle (compared to the other signs with pictures that looked like smaller castles?) would get me there. And while I thought I gave myself plenty of time to get there after the tour, it took much longer than expected. And it was a super warm day, and I was pretty dehydrated. But... I did it! I got there with a few minutes to spare.

But, as it turns out, the tour situation for the Prague Castle wasn't quite what I had expected. The ticket that I had pre-purchased came with a quick 15-minute orientation to get us situated in the complex, as well as an app-based tour. However, the app needed wi-fi and, unlike the Rijksmuseum yesterday or my next museum here in Prague, the complex does not have wi-fi. And I don't have a data plan that works here in Europe.

That really wasn't a huge deal-- the app tour was just a few dollars extra, so I figured I would just rent a physical audio tour/headset from the complex. But by then, it was about 2:30 pm, and parts of the complex close at 5. My headset rental would be good for 3 hours or until the close of the complex, so I was going to be rushing myself. And, my ticket to the complex allows for one entry per complex building within three months. If you're confused, so was I.

With all of these factors bouncing around my overheated, dehydrated, just-booked-it-up-the-stairs-I-can't-do-again head, I sat down to re-plan today and tomorrow.

Because I can use my ticket tomorrow, I decided to wait on most of the complex tour. But, I could still visit a few parts of it today!

 

First, I checked out the Castle Gardens. They weren't really "gardens," just more like structured green space with amazing views overlooking Prague. (They're also a free part of the complex.)

Then, I went to the Lobkowicz Palace, a small (okay, only small in comparison!) building at the end of the Prague Castle complex. While not included in the Castle ticket, it is well worth visiting. (And your ticket comes with a free audio tour narrated by the Lobkowicz family!) The Lobkowicz Palace is a privately-owned home that displays the Lobkowicz family's collection of art and china (not to mention the palace itself). Their stuff dates back centuries, and their family is (somehow, very convolutedly) connected to European royalty. While all of their possessions were confiscated twice (during World War II and then during the communist regime, I think) they've managed to reacquire and restore much of what they used to own.

And if this sounds like another boring museum, it isn't... The pieces all feel a bit more personal since these are pieces of a curated family collection, not just a compilation of museum donations. And some of their stuff is really freaking cool.

First of all, the art is mostly original paintings, and if you stand in the right lighting, you can literally see the texture of the brushstrokes. You can get close enough to touch these things (I didn't!) but you can see the individual brushstrokes and care put into these extravagant works of art.

Second, they have a Velazquez. And not just any Velazquez. They have a painting of la Infanta from Las Meninas. And while this is going to sound super dorky, I have wanted to see a painting of her since I was in early high school. I learned about Las Meninas in a Spanish history and culture class that included a lot of art studies and have wanted to see Velazquez's work since. And here she was, a portrait of la Infanta just inches from my face! It was exquisite.

Third, they have ORIGINAL copies of works by Haydn, Beethoven, and Mozart, some of which have the composer's own notations or corrections made in preparation for a piece's performance. I saw an original copy of Beethoven's Symphony No. 5. What?!

So, like I said. Well worth the additional ticket charge for the Lobkowicz Palace!

Next in the Castle was the Golden Lane. This is included in the Castle ticket. It's a quirky little street with small, festive houses. Some of them are made to look like the shop or pub they would have held in medieval times. And No. 22 was the residence of none other than Franz Kafka himself!

 

Left: No.22, Franz Kafka's residence. Right: the inside of one of the houses, which used to be occupied by a famous film collector and historian.

Golden Lane is a colorful collection of houses!

On my way out of the Castle, I tried to find the St. Wenceslas Vineyard to get some Moravian wine at the end of my long day. But I couldn't find it, so I just decided to head back to the hostel to get some water, rest my feet, and figure out a dinner plan.

After taking a bit of a break, I went out for dinner. My first choice place was recommended to me by a friend who lived here for a while. But unfortunately, it was permanently closed! My backup was Restaurace Mincovna, just off of the Old Town Square. (A travel blog had said that it was good local food without the tourist prices. The blog was wrong about the prices-- I found out later that I way overpaid for the food. But hey, at least it was good.)

I ordered the goulash (beef stew) and a local beer. The goulash was incredibly flavorful and served with raw onions and scallions on top. The potato dumplings on the side soaked up the flavor of the sauce.

Then it was off walking again: this time toward Wenceslas Square (the Champs-Elysees of Prague, if you will). Even though it was a Sunday night, there was so much going on--bars, shopping, street performers.

 

And I had to make sure to pass the Head of Franz Kafka! This is a moving statute--it continuously rotates different "bands" of Kafka's head. You can see the distortion in the face of the first picture compared to the "normal" appearance of the second.

And you know it wouldn't be the true end of an evening in Europe without some gelato in my hand. (How did I make it through Amsterdam without getting any?!)

I hit nearly 30,000 steps today, so it's time to rest up for another big walking day tomorrow. I have to finish everything on my Prague itinerary since it's my last day here!

Besos,

Tina the ExploraDora

Iron Curtain & Ironman: Amsterdam (Day 2)

 Hola todos,

I woke up this morning on a mission because I had the rest of the city to see and limited time in which to see it. My flight out of Amsterdam was tonight, so I had to make sure to get every second out of my time remaining in Amsterdam.

The first stop was to the Rijksmuseum, the largest and most famous art museum in Amsterdam.

Well, technically, my first stop was a cafe across the Museumplein (Museum Plaza) from the Rijksmuseum. It didn't open until 9am, so I grabbed a small breakfast and coffee and watched the city wake up.

I actually liked walking through a quiet and calmer Amsterdam. It felt smaller and quainter without the crowds, and with a light breeze and soft sunlight, it was a great way to start the day. (And apparently I have gotten some of their best summer weather since I've been here!)

Once the museum opened, I started my tour. Prepurchasing my ticket (with a timed entry window) was 100% the right move. I had seen this recommendation on a few travel blogs, and it remains true. I skipped to the front of the entry lines and was inside the museum by 9:05am. Another cool thing is the Rijksmuseum app--they have audioguides available for sale, but you can download their app and get multiple guided tours for free! You can choose a themed tour, the highlights tour, and even custom build your own tour based on specific art pieces you want to see. All you need is your phone and a set of headphones (and you can log onto the museum's wifi to use it). Totally clutch!

I did the highlights tour, and it took me about 90 minutes. While it just scratched the surface of what is in the museum, it was a good overview. And honestly, I am just still so shocked by the quantity and quality of the artwork there. The size of the pieces and sheer volume of art that was produced by some of these artists is astounding, especially when you consider how detailed the art is. Definitely worth the time and the money!

Next stop: Albert Cuypmarket. This is a large outdoor market with food, clothing, and produce and meat stands. Basically, everything you might need you could probably buy somewhere at this market. And, there are stores and cafes along the sidewalks to add to your choices! (The market is actually in the street itself.)

I tried two local Dutch foods: broodje herring and appeltaart.

Did I know what I was getting into? No. Am I proud of myself for finishing it? Yes, especially since I am not really a fish person. Broodje herring is a pickled herring sandwich. The texture of the fish was a bit disconcerting, although it mostly just tasted like, well, pickles. It was served with pickles and raw onions, too, which helped add some flavor and texture to the sandwich.

*Fun fact: Apparently the Dutch were the first in Europe to pickle foods.

I'm also not a huge pie person, but the appeltaart looks more like a cake and I figured I would try it. I really enjoyed it! The crust was significantly more cake-like (maybe like a banana bread or thick carrot cake texture?) instead of a flaky pie crust. The filling was also significantly less sweet and less syrupy/liquidy than traditional American apple pie filling.

Next, it was time to walk back downtown where I was going to meet my walking tour. But first, I decided to stop by this little patch of green gardens in the middle of the downtown: Begijnhof. This used to be a dedicated housing community for devout Catholic women who did not want to take vows or join a convent, but still wanted a dedicated community in which to live and serve the Church. Because they were technically separate from the Catholic Church, it sounds like they had more religious freedom in the height of the Reformation than many official affiliates of the Catholic Church had at that time.

Now the community is just a standard housing development (I think).

Next up, it was time for my walking tour! This was a free walking tour through Sandemans. They (and other companies) have free walking tours in a ton of major cities around the world that are tip-based. They are my go-to when traveling to a new city! The tour guides are locals with great historical knowledge, lots of tidbits you might not otherwise know, and restaurant or activity recs.

A lot of the history covered on the tour was familiar territory from the Amsterdam history book I read before getting here. (⚠️Nerd alert! 🤓)  But it was so cool to be able to see what I had only read about-- so often, we don't get to actually get to physically experience the places we hear about or learn of. 

This is the entrance to a building that was made in the 1600s. The building still stands today as it was back then. It used to be a working house for impoverished, unemployed, or homeless women. Now, it is part of the University of Amsterdam's campus.

This is the headquarters of the Dutch East India Trading Company. It was the first business to have "stocks" that could be purchased, traded, and sold as we understand the stock market today. It's remarkable how much of the world's wealth came through Amsterdam because of the spice trade.

The tour concluded, so I went back across the downtown toward my final two stops: the Anne Frank "House" and De 9 Straatjes, or "the Nine Streets." The Nine Streets is basically a fancy shopping district made up of a 3x3 of streets. The area was lovely and the shops were waaaay to fancy for me, so I walked around and enjoyed the city's scenes.

This is the building in which Anne Frank and her family hid for several years during Amsterdam's Nazi occupation. They offer tours so you can see the actual size of the family's quarters during this time, but I didn't have time to do that this trip.

Then it was time to head back to my hostel, grab my luggage, and head to the airport. The only small hiccup was that I didn't know where to pick up the bus... I managed to find it without too much difficulty, though, and had given myself plenty of time for potential mishaps.

Overall on Amsterdam

I think I might need to walk back some of my "first impressions" from yesterday. Amsterdam is quite lovely, and if you stayed away from most of the touristy areas, you could avoid a lot of the Red Light/sex and drugs paraphernalia. There is still a chance you could walk through a small Red Light street further outside the city center (apparently marketed toward the locals instead of the tourists). But most of the streets are charming, the views are exquisite, and the parks and green spaces are lovely. Maybe there is a map of Red Light streets that you can get in order to avoid those?

I also love how walkable the city is. You don't need to use a tram/bus line at all if you are willing to walk a bit, and the city is so flat that walking around can just take a while, but it's never really "hard." And obviously, cycling is always an option if you'd prefer too...

I feel like I did a pretty good job on my 27-hour sprint through the city (and even had a few moments of rest at cafes and waterfronts!). My itinerary let me see so much of the city... but I didn't even come close to really getting a "feel" for it. If I had another day, I would have spent longer at the Rijksmuseum and would have toured the Anne Frank House. And, if there had been time, I would have like to go to a neighborhood or town a bit further out for a day trip.

Would I come back? Definitely! But it's "tot ziens" to Amsterdam for now and time to say "ahoj" to Prague!

Besos,

Tina the ExploraDora

Iron Curtain & Ironman: Amsterdam (Day 1)

Hola todos!

This new adventure has officially started! I got to the airport too early (because of course I did), my flights were both delayed (because of course they were), and my sleep schedule and body clock are so messed up that I think I might have tricked it into easy adjustment (but I won't count my chickens until... well... I count some sheep).

I'm travelling light (of course) and both bags just happen to be Ironman branded. Don't judge me--they were the perfect sizes!

Traveling to Amsterdam involved an overnight flight to Portugal and a brief layover. Both were a tad delayed, but fortunately there was no harm done. I disembarked in Amsterdam with no complications (no checked bags to be lost!) and headed off to find my bus into the city center. I had pre-purchased a round trip bus ticket from the airport to downtown and back, and I was just hoping that the ticket worked and wasn't a scam.

Great news!

The bus was easy to find, arrived quickly, and accepted my digital ticket without any issues. And we were off to downtown Amsterdam!

I managed to miss my stop in downtown (whoops) but it wasn't a big deal-- I ended up getting dropped off in a neighborhood I wanted to walk around anyways. I was immediately submerged into the rowhomes, stone-paved streets, canals, and bikes.

So. Many. Bikes.

And while Amsterdam is a super pedestrian-friendly city, make no mistake: it is run by the cyclists. Who has right of way? Given their greater size and velocity, I think they automatically win that battle. Every time. Sometimes pedestrians have a "walk" sign and sometimes they have a "don't walk" sign but that doesn't seem to correlate at all with what the bikes will do. Just make sure you always look several times before crossing a street!

I walked maybe a half mile to my hostel, the Hans Brinker Hostel. It definitely seems to lean pretty heavily in the "party hostel" direction, but I have a semi-private bathroom with a shower and the location is amazing. So you won't catch me complaining.

After checking in and dropping of my bag, it was time to start the walking extravaganza. And I did not know it at the time, but I underestimated the city's size. It's definitely walkable, but the distances are not short.

I grabbed a sandwich dinner at a little grab-and-go eatery on the side of the one of the main streets and ate while I walked through town. (Such an American thing to do. I know. But I have places to go and things to see!) Then I walked by a fancy looking stroopwafel store and just had to stop in. It was so yummy!

Then I walked along the main downtown street up to the Centraal Station, which is where you can catch a ferry to the northern neighborhoods of Amsterdam! I didn't have time for a ferry trip to Noord and back, but I sat along the water for a few minutes enjoying the breeze and the view of the water.

Then it was time to continue walking, so headed south back toward the center of the downtown area. Oudekerk (literally "Old Church") is, you guessed it, an Old Church with beautiful architecture. Here is a view from across a large canal:

I knew the church was closed to tourists for the day, but I wanted to get a better view of the exterior. Little did I know that the side street I took from the back to the front of the church would be a mini-Red Light district...

And that leads me to the primary downside to the city thus far: The provocative sex culture is everywhere; you can't avoid it. I don't think I could logistically take a family with small children here since you accidentally walk into Red Light zones and even generic souvenir shops sell some pretty obscene stuff. Consider yourselves warned.

So anyways, I got out of that area as quickly as I could and went back towards the canal streets. Those, at least, seem to be mostly cafes and residences on one side and water on the other.

I walked a few more neighborhoods and then walked to Rembrandtplein (yes, named after that Rembrandt!) which is a plaza surrounded by bars and restaurants. Perfect for resting your feet and people watching.

Then, it was back to the hostel in an attempt to rest my legs and catch some zzzs. I got a bit of sleep on each flight out here, but not much, and Amsterdam is 6 hours ahead of the East Coast. And, it is still pretty bright outside as I write this at 9PM local time. So I have no idea what time my body thinks it is right now, other than "time to sleep."

So with that, I will bid you all:

Besos,

Tina the ExploraDora

Iron Curtain & Ironman: It's Almost Here!

Hola todos,

I know you've missed #InfluencerTina and this blog, but I've renewed my passport and booked a flight out of the country. It's time. She's back.

A few months ago, my dad signed up for an Ironman triathlon in Austria. Of course, I had to go to cheer him on. And I figured I could check a few more countries off my list while I'm over there! This will be a very Central Europe-focused trip, and I am pumped. I've never been to this region of the world, and there is so much world history held in the cities I'll be visiting. I'm traveling solo until Austria, where I will meet up with my folks. We'll do the last week of the trip together.

!!! (general, unintelligible excitement) [And yes, my general disclaimer applies: I am frequently excited about travel and may overdo it on the exclamation marks. Just know that I am trying to limit their usage...]

***

So, where am I going?

First stop: Amsterdam (Netherlands).

Okay, okay, I know what you're saying: "Wait a second, that isn't Central Europe!?"

I know. But it was cheaper to fly to Prague with a built-in layover in Amsterdam than to fly straight to Prague... So stopping over there was a no-brainer. I'll be in Amsterdam for 27 hours--just enough time to see a little bit of everything and wish I could stay longer. I just finished a great book on the history of Amsterdam (Amsterdam: A History of the World's Most Liberal City by Russell Shorto), and there is going to be so much to dive into there. From how the city was built on marsh land through ingenious engineering, to the various European powers that have laid claim to the city, to the Nazi occupation and Anne Frank's house, the city's cobblestone streets and bridges have seen so much world history!

Second stop: Prague (Czech Republic).

I'll be in Prague for two full days, and I hope I can scratch the surface. There are stunning churches and castles begging to be toured. There are a ton of statues throughout the city asking to be found. And the Bohemian region produces wine that needs to be tasted. There are also quite a lot of viewpoints throughout the city with amazing views of Prague.

Bonus stop: Brno (Czech Republic).

This will be a baby stop between Prague and Bratislava. It's (more or less) on the way, and there are two unique spots I'll stop by: 1. the Augustinian Abbey of St. Thomas, which is where Gregor Mendel formulated the laws of inheritance (high school biology, anyone?) and 2. a church in the city rings its "noon" bells at 11 a.m. Random, but quirky! It will also hopefully a bit of a smaller-town feel in which to casually explore and "feel" out Czech life.

Third stop: Bratislava (Slovakia).

This will be a 26-hour whirlwind in which I plan on doing two walking tours (one basic introductory tour and one focused on the impacts of World War II and communism) and, hopefully, see more castles and churches. (I'm sensing a pattern here...) My hostel has free laundry machines, so I will probably also be doing a load of wash. (Hey, these things are important to think about in advance!)

Fourth stop: Budapest (Hungary).

Another longer stop (two full days) will hopefully give me enough time to see both the Buda and Pest "sides" of the city. Yes, more churches and castles. But also a greater focus on the city's architecture (their Parliament building is stunning) and a few museums (which, you may have noticed, I will have otherwise generally avoided thus far in the trip). And my list of "must-try" Hungarian foods is too long for the handful of meals I'll be eating while there, so we'll see how I negotiate that with my stomach.

Fifth stop: Klagenfurt (Austria).

Also called Klagenfurt am Wörthersee. (How do I pronounce that? Your guess is as good as mine.) This seems like a random small town to go to in Austria, but this is where the race will be held! I will meet up with parents here and explore a bit, but the main event is my dad's Ironman race. (I can't forget that! It's the impetus for this trip!) We'll be able to see Klagenfurt while we spectate the all-day affair, and it will be a much more casual, calm tourism. And, I am sure I will appreciate the chance to catch my breath for a bit.

Sixth stop: Vienna (Austria).

We'll drive up to Vienna, which is my final stop. We have three full days to see all that city has to offer, including an independent micronation, the Hapsburg treasury and incredible historical treasures, and the Spanish Riding School. (Wait, "Spanish" riding school in Austria? Yes-- I guess you'll just have to check back in a few weeks for that post!)

*Bonus stop: Aaand, there will be a surprise extended layover on the way back to the States! Stay tuned for updates.

I hope you are as excited as I am. My goal is to post every day while I am traveling, so check back regularly for updates ("Where in the World is Tina Today?" just doesn't have the same ring as "Where in the World is Carmen Sandiego?") and pictures galore.

Besos,

Tina the ExploraDora

Europe > Exams: Lisbon & Going Home (Days 10-11)

Hola todos,

Wednesday (Day 10)

This was Kaitlynn's last morning—she went back a day earlier than the rest of us. We woke up early to send her off with a breakfast espresso, but the place right underneath our Airbnb was closed and didn't open until 9AM! For my American standards, that seems so ridiculous for a coffee and pastry shop. Where do the early birds get their caffeine? But no matter, we ended up walking one block to another local coffee place that was good. We sipped our espresso and helped her catch her bus.

Palácio Nacional e Jardins de Queluz (Queluz National Palace)

Lisboa Card savings: 1.85€ bus, 1.85€ metro, 1.5€ entrance

Then, the rest of us decided to go out and explore yet another palace in the area. It was a bit further to get to—we had to take both a bus and a train to get there. But it wasn't complicated. There was also a bit of a walk to the Palace from the metro stop, but we arrived at the Palace just a few minutes after it opened. There was no line, thankfully!

We got access to the palace and the gardens. It is a very large complex, so there was a lot to walk through a see. This palace was essentially a rural "retreat" for the royals, so it was a lot less ornate than the other palaces we've seen. But, it is still beautiful.

The throne room/receiving room (left) and the ballroom (right). And this was the more casual property!

There was more of a focus on the decorations of each room, as opposed to the architecture, and there were a ton of wall frescoes and other paintings. The rooms and paintings have been beautifully preserved and gave tourists a great idea of the layout of the home. The views are all of the palace gardens... so picturesque!

We also explored the gardens, which are expansive. There were a lot of fountains and hedges, kind of like a maze. There were also two full sets of gardens-- one internal, smaller set, and one external, larger set. We also saw horses in the royal stables! We got to pet them. We didn't ask to, but we weren't told not to... fortunately, no international incident ensued.

The lighting isn't great on this pic, but this is a sample of the exterior architecture. It is actually the church across the street from the Palace, but they look the same.

As we left Queluz to go back into Lisbon, it was around lunchtime. However, no restaurants or cafes in the area took credit card! They were all cash only. So we had to wait until we got back into a more touristy area to find a place that accepted card.

Praia da Rainha (or, Tina finds another beach)

Lisboa Card savings: 1.85€ metro, 1.85€ bus, 2.25€ metro to, 2.25€ metro back

We grabbed a quick lunch and then headed out to Praia da Rainha, one of the more popular beaches near Lisbon. It is about a 30-40 minute train ride out of the city, but extremely accessible. There are also a lot of other beaches that we passed on the train.

The water was cold, even in August, (Atlantic); the sun was hot (but we had some sunscreen!); and the shops in the area were really cute. We laid out our towels and literally all fell asleep. We were so tired from traveling and just "go-ing" so much over the past week and a half.

After a few hours of beach time, we headed back into Lisbon to clean up and then grab dinner. We ended up going to the same place we ate last night—the service was good, the food was local, and the location was close! We also, of course, stopped for gelato at a place near our Airbnb. What would our final night in Europe be without gelato?!

Thursday (Day 11)

We packed up and left the Airbnb this morning. We were definitely sad, but I, for one, was ready for a bit of stability and the comfort of home. We grabbed a final espresso and pastry at the café on the corner. ($2.50 for a savory pastry, a sweet pastry, and a coffee! I won't get over the sticker shock—or the reverse I faced when landing back in the States.) Then, we caught our bus to head over to the airport. (Lisboa Card savings: 1.85€ bus).

But, of course, nothing ever goes quite as planned—the buses we had to take were running a bit late, and while I like to act like I am okay cutting airport timing tight, I'm not. At all. So I was pretty stressed getting to the airport, especially since we had to go through a bunch of lines (check in/ticketing, security, and passports), and were unfamiliar with the huge airport's layout. Fortunately, the lines were short for every checkpoint we had to go through and no friendships were permanently ruined.

We boarded and immediately felt like queens. Pillows! Blankets! Headsets! On our seats and for free! We got a carry-on item! (Em and Jo needed the duffle bag they had Kaitlynn bring out when we met up with her—they had lots of souvenirs to pack up.) We got a hot meal, a snack, and beverage service no fewer than 3 times! Compared to our last two flights, we were living in luxury.

It was a direct flight, so we took off and landed without any issues.

This trip was so fun, and I strongly recommend you put both Iceland and Portugal on your travel lists. Both countries are so different and have such great histories, cultures, and general *vibes* for travelers to learn of and learn from.

Lisboa Card savings: 65.4€

The card is well worth it! Again, the cost for the 72-hour/3-day pass was about $45. We didn't have to take as much time getting in line and paying for tickets at various places or waiting to load a metro card. We also felt freedom to travel a bit more because we didn't have to worry about spending more money with an additional train, bus, or metro trip.

Step Tracker: 210,693 steps total (per person!)

Besos (and until next trip!),

Tina the ExploraDora